Our first meeting with the Rick Steves tour guide was Sunday at four p.m. at our new base camp, the tiny four-star Londres Eiffel Hotel in the 7th arrondissement, one of Paris’ prettiest neighborhoods and just around the corner from the Iron Lady, which towers over the terrain. Nearby is the hallowed Jardin du Champ de Mars with its high-end food shops, renowned restaurants, cute little streets and chic village atmosphere. If you believe the natives, Barack Obama ate at a restaurant half a block away and loved it.
There are 30 rooms in the hotel and ours was #51. Better not to ask. Suffice to say, our group of 24 pretty much filled the place up and was treated like long-lost kin. The charming concierge, Richard, looked and dressed like Elton John at an earlier age. Richard knows everything, but everything, about Paris, including how long it takes to get from the hotel to the airport at any hour of any day and who to call to get you there.
When we arrived fifteen minutes early for our introductory meeting at 3:45, Rolinka Bloeming, our shepherd for the next five days, was already in action, kicking ass and taking names. Rolinka is a tall, lean Dutch woman who goes everywhere in a lightweight duster attached to a small communication device, the better to keep in touch with her brood, which carries similar gadgets. After everyone had arrived and filled out their paperwork, Rolinka marched us off to dinner at a Brasserie down the street.
Ms. Bloeming has been with the Rick Steves organization for 30 years, so she knows her stuff. She is also a bit of a martinet, so there will be no talking in class, at least when Rolinka is communicating. Offenders like the irreverent Siobhan Ellison get a little nudge on the shoulder to let them know they have displeased the queen. If this seems a little harsh, consider the intricacies involved in herding 24 strangers around a big new city. Somebody has to be the boss.
Rolinka, who has a bit of an accent (quite similar to German), starts off the evening by assigning buddies to each of us. She unintentionally pronounces the word “booties,” which we like and decide to keep. My bootie will be the quiet and very nice Ann, while Siobhan winds up with Rolinka. Keep your friends close and your enemies closer, right?
Rolinka wants us to try speaking a little French in our daily interactions. She also requires maintaining a healthy pace for the 5+ miles we will walk each day. We will learn the Metro routes by practice, also the bus lines and how to get the train back from Versailles. The Rick Steves philosophy is to make you self-sufficient in a strange place because at the end of each day’s scheduled event you will be expected to find your own way back to base, like a homing pigeon. You will also keep pace with the group or you’ll be shifting for yourself, like a cheery Asian lady named Sharon did when she lingered too long at Notre Dame. Rolinka gave her an extra five minutes and on we went. Sharon got home just fine and conceded the abandonment was her own fault. At the site of the offense I told Siobhan Rolinka would make a good nun.
| Above, Bill outside Notre Dame; center, inside the Cathedral; bottom, Rolinka at Sainte-Chapelle. |
Cheer, Cheer For Old Notre Dame!
Strict or not, Rolinka was a fountain of valuable information about every aspect of Paris. On our first trek to Notre Dame, she took on the important subject of public toilets, which are very nasty, by the way. “You can only be on the toilet 5 minutes,” she said. “After that, the doors will open up and there you will be in all your glory.” As tips go, I think we can all agree this one is right up there with “don’t pet the wild bison.”
Despite its flirtation with death, Notre Dame might actually be better than ever. The intense post-debacle cleaning of the cathedral removed centuries of dark soot to reveal the bright, original limestone walls last seen when the structure was built in the 12th century. The 8000-pipe Grand Organ was completely taken apart, cleaned of toxic lead dust and put back together piece by piece. Repair work on the floors uncovered hidden 13th-century stone carvings and architectural pieces previously lost to history.
Engineers installed a specialized, hidden mist extinguishing system and improved the timber framework safety to prevent future disasters. The rebuilt spire and roof closely mirror the historical design using authentic oak and lead while benefiting from modern engineering strength. Dedicated workers rejected modern power shortcuts for parts of the timber frame, using hand-hewn axes just like 12th-century builders. While we were there, workers with mallets were busting rocks in an adjacent street and fitting them in place in the roadway.
Rolinka the Reliable got us to Notre Dame early to avoid the long lines that form in mid-morning. Inside, the Cathedral’s stained glass was a particular treat for an old lapsed Catholic boy. The sheer size of the place is, if you’ll excuse us, awesome, and we’re sure God is proud. By the way, while we’re cheering for old Notre Dame, let’s hear it for Victor Hugo, without whom the place would likely be toast. The Cathedral was in ruins and slated to be demolished in the early 1800s until Victor came along and wrote The Hunchback of Notre Dame in 1831. The book’s massive success sparked a public outcry that prompted the government to launch a major restoration instead of killing the church. So let’s hear it for the writers, once again saving mankind from itself. Salud!
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| Above, Rolinka doles out the goodies; center, our heroes at play; bottom, Jewish memorial at Le Marais. |
Le Marais is a historic and trendy district in the third and fourth arrondissements of Paris known for its medieval streets, aristocratic mansions, vibrant Jewish quarter and thriving LGBTQIA+LMNOP community (just covering all the bases). The Marais blends old world charm with modern boutiques, art galleries and diverse eateries. The word itself means “swamp” or “marshland,” which the entire area was built over, like Orlando. Rolinka brought forth Brad, the professorial guide, to enhance our experience, and he was a fountain of arcane knowledge, familiar with every building on any street.
Le Marais might be the falafel capital of France. The big dog is L’As du Fallafel on Rue des Rosiers, where the line of would be customers stretches down the street. The New York Times calls the place “THE falafel destination in France, indeed in Europe.” You might catch Lenny Kravitz there, waiting in line like everyone else. Lenny says it’s his favorite place in Paris. Don’t go on Friday afternoon, though. The place closes for Shabbat, so every Friday there’s a wild-eyed, panicky crowd beating its way to the falafel counter like maniacs at the Apple store on iPhone launch day. Oh, and don’t wear white—that tahini gets all over everything.
The Jewish quarter of Le Marais, historically known as the Pletzl (Yiddish for “little place” or “salty bread snack”) features a rich community heritage dating back to the 13th century. It centers around the medieval Rue de Rosiers, famous for its synagogues, kosher food shops and those merry falafel stands. Waves of Ashkenazi Jews fleeing persecution in Eastern Europe and Russia settled in the area in the nineteenth century, creating the first Pletzl enclave. The community suffered devastating losses during the Nazi deportations of the Shoah, but Sephardic Jews arriving from North Africa relit the flame in the 1960s and 70s. The Memorial de la Shoah right in the heart of Le Marais features a Wall of Names listing the 76,000 French Jews deported and murdered during WWII. You might need more falafel after that stop.
All You Need Is Louvre
Last October’s brazen daylight robbery of the priceless French crown jewels was not the first big art theft at the Louvre. In 1911, a handyman named Vincenzo Peruggia, 29, stole the Mona Lisa by simply hiding it in a broom closet overnight, then walking out with the painting hidden under his coat during daytime hours. Vinnie was no petty thief, he was an Italian nationalist miffed because he thought the Mona Lisa belonged in Italy. Nobody noticed for 24 hours. Then Paris went crazy. Tourism actually went up, though, because everyone wanted to see the hole where the missing painting used to be. Go figure.
The theft made the Mona Lisa world famous. Before 1911, she was just another Renaissance painting, but after the heist she became the most famous painting in the world. Peruggia managed to get Mona into Italy, where patriots treated him like a hero. The painting was displayed in Florence and in Rome before the Italians gave it back in 1914. Vinnie got a mere six months in the calaboose.
Don’t try that stuff today, you’ll be beaten to a pulp by security. The closest you can get is 10 to 15 feet away. Mona is protected by bulletproof glass 2.5 inches thick and acid-proof. Alarms go off if her casing is opened or moved and cameras watch her 24/7. An incredible 20,000 people a day show up to see her, most of them leaving the crush of humanity after 30 seconds. I patiently weaved my way through the crowd, made it to the front and stood there for two minutes or so, immune to the discomfort, alone in my bubble with the painting. Then I took four pictures, each better than the one before, tipped my cap to Mona like the gentleman I am, and left her smiling. It must have been something I said.
Eduardo Talks The Talk
Since the Louvre frowns on large globs of tourists blocking up their hallowed halls, our group was split in two, each with its own guide. We got Eduardo, an enthusiastic young art historian. who carried an iPad, the better to inform you with, my dears. Eduardo loved his job, worshipped the Louvre and did his best to describe the inventory in great detail. He begged us to ask him difficult questions, challenged us to stump him, recited chapter and verse about all the major pieces. He laughed, he cried, he replied lovingly to dumb questions, twirling his iPad more deftly than a lead majorette. By the end, we thought we might need to take him home with us to make life simpler, but Rolinka dashed our hopes by giving him another appointment. Eduardo started in the basement, explaining how and why the building was constructed.
In the year 1190, King Philip II decided he needed a stone fort hard by the Seine to protect Paris from attacks. By the 14th century, a fort was no longer necessary, so King Charles V decided to move in and making the building a living space. King Francis I tore down the medieval keep in 1546 to build a modern Renaissance palace, also starting the royal art collection and buying masterworks like Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. In the 17th century, King Louis XIV added grand wings but removed the royal court to the Palace of Versailles in 1682, leaving the Louvre to house artists. In 1793, during the French Revolution, the revolutionary government officially opened the Louvre Museum, displaying hundreds of confiscated royal and church art pieces to the public. Napoleon Bonaparte expanded the building complexes after adding items from his military campaigns. In 1989, the famous glass pyramid designed by architect I. M. Pei was added as a new central entrance.
The current Louvre Museum covers a total floor area of 2.26 million square feet, with 782,000 square feet dedicated specifically to public exhibition space. The collection size is over 615,000 works of art, if you can imagine that, of which about 35,000 works are shown to the public at any given time. Viewing every single piece of art takes several days, but the major highlights visited by most tours can be seen in 3-4 hours, maybe a tad longer if you place no limitations on Eduardo.
That’s all, folks….
bill.killeen094@gmail.com
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